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Behind H&M racketeer Xinjiang cotton, there are people

Many people are saying that #HM racketeer Xinjiang Cotton # is worthy of a popular search.

H&M’s announcement in October that it would stop using cotton from Xinjiang went viral on China’s Twitter-like microblogging site Weibo, drawing angry comments from netizens and even cries of “resolute boycott.”

Soon after, Huang Xuan and Song Qian, two of H&M’s spokespeople in Greater China, announced they were ending their relationship with the company. Tmall and JD.com have also been unable to find H&M products on their apps, and they are suspected to have been removed from the shelves.

Some netizens also pointed out that Uniqlo, Nike, Adidas and many other companies hold the same position with H&M.

One thing they all have in common is that they are members of the Good Cotton Development Association (BCI).

What role did BCI play in the “stop using cotton from Xinjiang” incident? H&M really braided Chinese netizens to stop using cotton from Xinjiang, and the well-known enterprises in Yishui also followed suit and stopped using cotton?

Last night, a blogger reported that H&M had voluntarily banned cotton and outsourcing factories from Xinjiang.

Make money in China while spreading rumors about the boycott.

Such a statement was infuriating to the public in a country that will be H&M’s fourth-largest market in 2020.

Of course, some netizens mocked that the quality of H&M’s clothes does not match the cotton from Xinjiang.

There’s even the word of the day: HM, Huang Miu.

H&M’s “due diligence statement,” issued in October 2020, said it was “discontinuing the use” of cotton produced in Xinjiang, citing “forced labor” in the region.

Mei Dao will draw the key points for you.The statement stated that H&M was “deeply concerned about reports from civil society organizations and media reports, including allegations of forced labor and religious discrimination against ethnic minorities in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.”

The conclusion: H&M Group states that “we do not work with or source products/raw materials from any garment manufacturing plant located in Xinjiang”.

“Our suppliers source cotton from BCI-related farms in the region,” the H&M statement said. As it has become increasingly difficult to conduct credible due diligence in the region, BCI has decided to suspend the issuance of BCI cotton licences in Xinjiang. That means the cotton we need for our products will no longer be available from there.”The statement has now been removed from the H&M website, but a screenshot of the previous page can still be seen.

That is to say, H&M made the decision to “stop using cotton from Xinjiang” based on the judgment of BCI and some so-called private reports and media reports.

Dao noted that this isn’t the first time H&M has taken a stand on the Xinjiang issue.

The statement came just a month after H&M announced in September 2020 that it was ending “indirect business dealings” with Huafu, a giant in China’s yarn industry, over allegations that the factory had employed ethnic minorities in Xinjiang in “forced labor.”

Huafu is one of the world’s largest suppliers and manufacturers of dyed yarns, serving a wide range of international customers, from Nike and Adidas to H&M, Zara and Gap. It is also the leading supplier of high-end lingerie yarns designated by Victoria’s Secret.

And I’m going to go down. Huafu was targeted because of a report released in March 2020 by the Australian Strategic Policy Institute, an Australian think-tank.

The report argues that between 2017 and 2019, more than 80,000 Uighurs were moved from Xinjiang to “forced labor” in factories across China. They also compiled what they called a count of at least 27 factories in China that received Uighurs in a “forced labor” program. Huafu is one of them.

The report also identified at least 83 international companies that use materials from these factories in their supply chains. The report therefore recommends that these multinationals “immediately conduct open and careful investigations into Labour rights in their supply chains”.

H&M responded to the survey in a hurry.

“There is no indication that forced Labour was involved in Huafu’s factory in Shangyu District, but it has been decided to wind down its indirect business relationship with Huafu Fashion over the next 12 months until allegations of forced Labour are ascertained,” H&M’s statement on the investigation read.

Also, H&M’s announcement of the cutting was made on Sept. 15. Not too soon, not too late, just on the heels of the United States announced on September 14 to ban imports of cotton and other commodities from six Chinese companies or institutions.

Separately, a list of companies, including Uniqlo and others, has been compiled online to boycott cotton from Xinjiang.In response to a Japanese media inquiry, Uniqlo’s parent company Fast Retailing said in February that it would terminate or consider terminating its operations if its future partners were found to be involved in forced labor. Ryoshin, Muji’s parent company, says it uses cotton yarn certified by a third party.Its full name is The Better Cotton Initiative, which literally translates to The Association for The Development of Good Cotton.

The NGO, founded in Switzerland in 2009, promotes “good cotton”.

Supposedly, cotton only quality is good or bad, how to calculate “good”?

The BCI website explains that “good cotton” is threatened by two negative environmental and social factors.

It then lists environmental factors such as inefficient irrigation techniques and improper use of pesticides as well as social factors such as poor working conditions, child Labour and forced Labour.


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